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NEWS AND REVIEWS
The following articles were reprinted with permission
from Sauce Magazine.

Nontraditional Nuptials: Couples find unique
ways to tie the knot
By Madeline Holler
A wedding can be one of the most important days of your life. It can
also be one of the most expensive,
with couples and their families laying out an average of $20,000 for
the ceremony and reception.
That amount of money – and the significance of the day –
has many a modern affianced saying
“I won’t” when it comes to standard wedding day fare.
Some are shirking the rubber chicken dinner and Sterno-heated
buffets for a reception and meal in line
with their over-the-top foodie tastes. Others have sought out venues
where the couple, and especially
the guests, feels most comfortable. And with the availability of locally
grown, organic food – and a
growing understanding of the impact large, traditional weddings can
have on the environment – it’s
not surprisingthat some couples look to put their wedding budget where
their values are.
All about the food
Forget karaoke and the chicken dance. What Melissa and Rob Merlin wanted
to focus on at their
wedding was food – exquisitely prepared, multiple courses that
said something about them as a
couple. After saying “I do,” these newlyweds sat down among
their 100 or so guests and devoured
a four-course meal with paired wines.
The menu was hardly typical wedding fare. Each course,
from its inspiration to preparation to color,
was a nod to the couple’s frequent travels across the country
and overseas for a good bite to eat.
“In large part, we built this wedding around the food we love,”
Rob Merlin, a St. Louis attorney, said.
The pair worked closely with caterer Linda Pilcher, owner of Something
Elegant Catering, to create
a menu that was meaningful to the couple, enjoyable for the guests and
capable of being prepared in
a makeshift kitchen in the bride’s family’s lake house garage.
A dinner date in Paris inspired hors d'oeuvres of crêpes
filled with smoked salmon and dill sour cream.
Grilled tenderloin of beef with wild mushroom vinaigrette reminded them
of a dinner in Scotland. They
served a cold soup intermezzo as is customary at Melissa Merlin’s
favorite restaurant in New York City.
The soup’s melon color intentionally referenced their wedding
colors, green and brown, as did a dozen
jars filled with a variety of brown, white and green candies –
Rob Merlin’s snacking passion.
The three-hour meal focused the guests on conversation,
relaxation and good food, Melissa Merlin,
also an attorney, said. “We created a wedding that said something
about us.” The abundance of
out-of-town guests – he grew up on Long Island in New York and
she worked for several years
in Washington, D.C. – gave the transplanted and native St. Louisans
a chance to show off their home
state. “We feel like because it was a small wedding centered around
dinner, we were able to talk to
our guests and really share the night with them. People could sense
the warmth. That’s one of my
favorite parts of the wedding,” she said.
Whereas the Merlins cast a wide net with their food choices,
Libby and John Scrofano, an Indianapolis
couple married locally in the bride’s hometown, focused specifically
on all things Italian, particularly
Florentine. The Scrofanos were engaged in Florence, Italy, while she
was studying cooking there.
In addition to a summer menu prepared by Pilcher that
included Florence-inspired antipasti, pork
tenderloin stuffed with roasted peaches and balsamic roasted potatoes
and regional cheeses, they
carried a traditional Italian lavender and rosemary theme throughout
the wedding and meal that started
with their engagement.
“When my husband proposed to me in Florence, he
gave me a bottle of lavender perfume,” Libby
Scrofano said. John Scrofano, a first-generation Sicilian-American,
explained that lavender is a
traditional scent representing beauty and is worn by brides. They incorporated
the herb, along with
rosemary, a symbol of faithfulness, into wedding favors, tucked into
napkins and as her signature
scent that day.
“We focused on a few significant details –
like the food,” Libby Scrofano, who works at a gourmet
food and wine store in Indianapolis, said. “The meal lasted three
hours and everyone seemed to
enjoy it. We ended up having a great time and no stress.”
Something borrowed, something green
Green couples might opt for a more natural nuptials celebration
in everything from their invitations and
the bride’s dress to the food served at the wedding. A quick online
search yields countless ideas, tips
and resources for nearly every element of a modern-day wedding. In St.
Louis, open-minded vendors,
local access to “green” products and the availability of
environmental impact information make planning
a wedding that reduces, reuses and recycles possible. Still, it will
take some work.
Jean Ponzi, program manager of the Missouri Botanical
Garden’s EarthWays Home, knows from her
own wedding 10 years ago the challenge in planning a ceremony and celebration
with as little negative
impact on society and the environment as possible. It was only after
she and her husband had
exchanged rings that they learned of the extreme impact the mining of
gold has on the earth and the
people who mine it, Ponzi said. “Had we known, we would have bought
used wedding bands.”
But that’s the lesson of going green. “Get
the best information that you can and make the best choices
that you can at the time,” Ponzi said. “There are many ways
to have an event that reduces waste,
restricts energy consumption and is as healthy as possible.”
From the very start, couples can execute an eco-chic
celebration focusing their efforts on what’s
available and what they can afford. Save-the-date cards and invitations
can be printed on recycled
or tree-free paper. The wedding and bridesmaid dresses can be purchased
used or rented along
with the groomsmen’s tuxedos. Several St. Louis shops, including
Callahan’s Tuxedos, offer a
selection of styles of once-worn and rental gowns.
For the right bridal body types, a vintage dress may
be the way to go. Alice’s Vintage Clothes in the
Central West End carries several dozen wedding dresses from the 1920s
to the 1960s, and countless
more Victorian gowns and garden party dresses that some brides are opting
to wear down the aisle.
If the betrothed is not within the typical Victorian
size six and under, the dresses can still provide lace,
satin and beadwork for a simpler off-the-rack dress. Vintage veils,
old wax flowers, pearl ornaments
and other accessories add interesting embellishments without creating
waste.
If organically grown flowers are out of the budget and
locally grown flowers are out of season,
couples can try growing their own blooms indoors for bouquets, boutonnieres
and swag. If that’s
out of the question, couples can have the flowers used at the wedding
site moved and remade into
simple centerpieces for the reception. Still too much work? How about
renting potted plants from an
interior landscaper or floral shop? Try Sally’s Floral and Garden
Design.
With typically half of a wedding budget spent on venue
and food, the wedding dinner is where
couples often can have the greenest impact. Start with locally grown
or organic ingredients served
up on nondisposable table service. If tastes and budget allow, choose
organic wines.
Julie Ridlon, owner of Chanterelle Catering, said a good
caterer works within the parameters of the
couple’s goals, guest list and budget. “We don’t have
set menus. Instead, we listen to the clients’
needs and wants and go from there. Couples can have all or part of the
menu vegetarian, for
example, or comprised of locally grown foods,” said Ridlon, who
also owns the Clayton and
Maplewood farmers’ markets.
Location, location, location
Before Stephen and Ruth Price crossed the threshold into
their home as newlyweds, they stood over
home plate and exchanged vows. The couple’s wedding was in Busch
Stadium. And, get this – it was
the bride’s idea.
“When my husband first told people we were getting
married at Busch Stadium, they would ask, ‘Is
Ruth OK with it?’” Ruth Price said. “He would say,
‘Yeah, she’s OK with it. It was her idea.’”
The couple didn’t belong to a church, so they started
looking for something nontraditional, she said.
Her sister suggested Busch Stadium. While neither is a particularly
die-hard Cardinals fan – John Price
grew up in New England – they both like sports and took to the
idea of a less traditional celebration.
An added sentimental bonus: Their first date was a Cardinals home game.
“Everything else about the wedding was pretty regular,”
Ruth Price said, referring to her dress, the
wedding party and the reception, which was across the street at the
Marriott where both bride and
groom work. “We didn’t do anything too crazy, but we’re
just not that traditional.” Case in point: Fred
Bird, the Cardinals’ mascot, drove Ruth Price’s then-fiancé
out on his cart to meet her at the altar, uh,
home plate.
Thinking outside the wedding-gift box
Creating a day meaningful to the couple and their families
can mean a lot of compromise. But
would-be brides and grooms shouldn’t be discouraged. If formal
weddings don’t celebrate the
casual outdoor adventurer in you, consider a church wedding followed
by a potluck picnic reception.
Contact Missouri State Parks for a list of possible locations. If registering
for gifts despite already
owning everything you need conflicts with your values, choose a charity
that can benefit from the
largesse of guests wanting to honor your commitment. For charitable
gift registries, check out the
I Do Foundation.
The point is to create a special day that doesn’t
undermine the couple’s values and interests. Instead,
with a bit of research and planning, engaged couples can plan for a
day that expresses their
personalities, welcomes and entertains guests and rewards the work and
investment of family.
There’s more than one way to tie the knot.
The culture of eating has always fascinated this caterer
By Julie Failla Earhart
Linda Pilcher's story begins many years ago. In her teens, she thought
she wanted to be a
psychotherapist and that's what she studied. "But I really wasn't
happy," she said. "There was
something missing.” When a friend's parents passed away and left
her friend a little money, they
started thinking about what they really wanted to do.
"We decided to start a small catering business.
It only involved a minimal amount of financial risk.
And I loved it,” Pilcher said. “I've been in the business
ever since – that's 21 years and still growing
strong."
Pilcher may not have realized it while studying psychology,
but the culture of eating has always
fascinated her. Especially since her therapeutic specialization was
eating disorder. "Ironic, huh?"
she said.
What do you like best about the catering business?
Unlike psychotherapy, there is a somewhat immediate gratification. With
each project, there's a
beginning, middle and end. Therapy can take years to see results.
What things do you find different after all these
years?
There are two. First is that catering is no longer being relegated to
seasonal affairs and celebrations.
It's happening with all types of events, especially small, and by that
I mean 20 to 25 guests, dinner
parties.
Second is that most of my clients are looking toward
having more vegetarian offerings. It used to be
almost an afterthought or something to please one or two guests. Now
it's becoming more and
more mainstream.
What's your favorite event to cater?
I really enjoy events that average 50 to 100 people. Large enough to
be challenging, and by that I mean
that it's challenging for my staff to present excellent food, well prepared
in a timely manner. This size
event is also large enough that we can try new things and be creative
in varieties and presentation.
And I always enjoy any event where the client is very interested in
food and the quality of the food is
a top priority.
Do you do all the cooking yourself?
Oh no! I have a wonderful chef, Pat Edwards, who is [Culinary Institute
of America] trained and has
been with me for eight years. Her assistant, Joanna Duley, is marvelous
with pastries. Those two
make me look good.
What one ingredient won't we find in your kitchen?
That's a hard one as there's not much we don't use. I guess I'd have
to say bologna. I can't recall
ever doing anything with bologna.
What are your favorite foods to cook?
I like hearty dishes that have a depth of flavors. I enjoy Mediterranean
cuisine a lot.
What's your favorite type of food to eat?
Raw oysters. I can eat them by the truckload. I don't think I've ever
gotten tired of them. I grew up
in Houston and Little Rock. I love Southern foods. Shrimp and grits.
Plain grits. Fruit pies like peach and
apple, although I tend to make more tarts because there's less of a
chance I'll mess up the crust.
Homemade biscuits. Bread pudding. Crème brûlée.
What is one of the more off-the-wall experiences
you've had?
Several years ago, we were hired for a coming-out party that was held
at the American Theatre.
Not to cater the food for the main guests, but we were hired to feed
the entertainers – Tommy Tune
was the headliner _ the stagehands, the security people, etc. We were
up all night and had a blast.
What do you like to do when you're not working?
Believe it or not, I like to cook. And I enjoy wine. My husband and
I love to entertain at home. And we
truly enjoy trying to find new pairings of food and wine. And we bird-watch.
Tom is an avid
bird-watcher and I've become one in defense. Our vacations tend to center
around bird-watching
and food. And we also garden. I like to play in the dirt and grow herbs.
What's you favorite vacation destination?
Sonoma Valley in California. The atmosphere there is so inviting and
relaxing for me. I've never been to Tuscany, but I imagine that I would
adore it there.
What are your favorite restaurants?
There's our old favorite Zinnia. The quality of food there is always
excellent. On the newer scene we
enjoy An American Place and Red Moon.
What task do you hate to do the most?
Pat and Joanna could probably tell you more easily, but the first things
that come to mind are washing
lettuce for a 200-plus party and peeling asparagus for any size event.
What advice would you give someone entertaining
the idea of opening a catering
business?
- It's fun to fantasize that all you do is cook all
day, but the hard truth is that you must also be a
people person and a businessperson. You can't cook what you want,
but what your clients
want. You must please their palates, not yours.
- You don't have to be rich to start this type of business.
You can start small and then grow.
- Follow your heart. I'd tell that to anyone entering
any field. If you feel strongly about something,
stay the course.
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