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The following articles were reprinted with permission from Sauce Magazine.

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Nontraditional Nuptials: Couples find unique ways to tie the knot
By Madeline Holler


A wedding can be one of the most important days of your life. It can also be one of the most expensive,
with couples and their families laying out an average of $20,000 for the ceremony and reception.
That amount of money – and the significance of the day – has many a modern affianced saying
“I won’t” when it comes to standard wedding day fare.

Some are shirking the rubber chicken dinner and Sterno-heated buffets for a reception and meal in line
with their over-the-top foodie tastes. Others have sought out venues where the couple, and especially
the guests, feels most comfortable. And with the availability of locally grown, organic food – and a
growing understanding of the impact large, traditional weddings can have on the environment – it’s
not surprisingthat some couples look to put their wedding budget where their values are.

All about the food


Forget karaoke and the chicken dance. What Melissa and Rob Merlin wanted to focus on at their
wedding was food – exquisitely prepared, multiple courses that said something about them as a
couple. After saying “I do,” these newlyweds sat down among their 100 or so guests and devoured
a four-course meal with paired wines.

The menu was hardly typical wedding fare. Each course, from its inspiration to preparation to color,
was a nod to the couple’s frequent travels across the country and overseas for a good bite to eat.
“In large part, we built this wedding around the food we love,” Rob Merlin, a St. Louis attorney, said.
The pair worked closely with caterer Linda Pilcher, owner of Something Elegant Catering, to create
a menu that was meaningful to the couple, enjoyable for the guests and capable of being prepared in
a makeshift kitchen in the bride’s family’s lake house garage.

A dinner date in Paris inspired hors d'oeuvres of crêpes filled with smoked salmon and dill sour cream.
Grilled tenderloin of beef with wild mushroom vinaigrette reminded them of a dinner in Scotland. They
served a cold soup intermezzo as is customary at Melissa Merlin’s favorite restaurant in New York City.
The soup’s melon color intentionally referenced their wedding colors, green and brown, as did a dozen
jars filled with a variety of brown, white and green candies – Rob Merlin’s snacking passion.

The three-hour meal focused the guests on conversation, relaxation and good food, Melissa Merlin,
also an attorney, said. “We created a wedding that said something about us.” The abundance of
out-of-town guests – he grew up on Long Island in New York and she worked for several years
in Washington, D.C. – gave the transplanted and native St. Louisans a chance to show off their home
state. “We feel like because it was a small wedding centered around dinner, we were able to talk to
our guests and really share the night with them. People could sense the warmth. That’s one of my
favorite parts of the wedding,” she said.

Whereas the Merlins cast a wide net with their food choices, Libby and John Scrofano, an Indianapolis
couple married locally in the bride’s hometown, focused specifically on all things Italian, particularly
Florentine. The Scrofanos were engaged in Florence, Italy, while she was studying cooking there.

In addition to a summer menu prepared by Pilcher that included Florence-inspired antipasti, pork
tenderloin stuffed with roasted peaches and balsamic roasted potatoes and regional cheeses, they
carried a traditional Italian lavender and rosemary theme throughout the wedding and meal that started
with their engagement.

“When my husband proposed to me in Florence, he gave me a bottle of lavender perfume,” Libby
Scrofano said. John Scrofano, a first-generation Sicilian-American, explained that lavender is a
traditional scent representing beauty and is worn by brides. They incorporated the herb, along with
rosemary, a symbol of faithfulness, into wedding favors, tucked into napkins and as her signature
scent that day.

“We focused on a few significant details – like the food,” Libby Scrofano, who works at a gourmet
food and wine store in Indianapolis, said. “The meal lasted three hours and everyone seemed to
enjoy it. We ended up having a great time and no stress.”

Something borrowed, something green

Green couples might opt for a more natural nuptials celebration in everything from their invitations and
the bride’s dress to the food served at the wedding. A quick online search yields countless ideas, tips
and resources for nearly every element of a modern-day wedding. In St. Louis, open-minded vendors,
local access to “green” products and the availability of environmental impact information make planning
a wedding that reduces, reuses and recycles possible. Still, it will take some work.

Jean Ponzi, program manager of the Missouri Botanical Garden’s EarthWays Home, knows from her
own wedding 10 years ago the challenge in planning a ceremony and celebration with as little negative
impact on society and the environment as possible. It was only after she and her husband had
exchanged rings that they learned of the extreme impact the mining of gold has on the earth and the
people who mine it, Ponzi said. “Had we known, we would have bought used wedding bands.”

But that’s the lesson of going green. “Get the best information that you can and make the best choices
that you can at the time,” Ponzi said. “There are many ways to have an event that reduces waste,
restricts energy consumption and is as healthy as possible.”

From the very start, couples can execute an eco-chic celebration focusing their efforts on what’s
available and what they can afford. Save-the-date cards and invitations can be printed on recycled
or tree-free paper. The wedding and bridesmaid dresses can be purchased used or rented along
with the groomsmen’s tuxedos. Several St. Louis shops, including Callahan’s Tuxedos, offer a
selection of styles of once-worn and rental gowns.

For the right bridal body types, a vintage dress may be the way to go. Alice’s Vintage Clothes in the
Central West End carries several dozen wedding dresses from the 1920s to the 1960s, and countless
more Victorian gowns and garden party dresses that some brides are opting to wear down the aisle.

If the betrothed is not within the typical Victorian size six and under, the dresses can still provide lace,
satin and beadwork for a simpler off-the-rack dress. Vintage veils, old wax flowers, pearl ornaments
and other accessories add interesting embellishments without creating waste.

If organically grown flowers are out of the budget and locally grown flowers are out of season,
couples can try growing their own blooms indoors for bouquets, boutonnieres and swag. If that’s
out of the question, couples can have the flowers used at the wedding site moved and remade into
simple centerpieces for the reception. Still too much work? How about renting potted plants from an
interior landscaper or floral shop? Try Sally’s Floral and Garden Design.

With typically half of a wedding budget spent on venue and food, the wedding dinner is where
couples often can have the greenest impact. Start with locally grown or organic ingredients served
up on nondisposable table service. If tastes and budget allow, choose organic wines.

Julie Ridlon, owner of Chanterelle Catering, said a good caterer works within the parameters of the
couple’s goals, guest list and budget. “We don’t have set menus. Instead, we listen to the clients’
needs and wants and go from there. Couples can have all or part of the menu vegetarian, for
example, or comprised of locally grown foods,” said Ridlon, who also owns the Clayton and
Maplewood farmers’ markets.

Location, location, location

Before Stephen and Ruth Price crossed the threshold into their home as newlyweds, they stood over
home plate and exchanged vows. The couple’s wedding was in Busch Stadium. And, get this – it was
the bride’s idea.

“When my husband first told people we were getting married at Busch Stadium, they would ask, ‘Is
Ruth OK with it?’” Ruth Price said. “He would say, ‘Yeah, she’s OK with it. It was her idea.’”

The couple didn’t belong to a church, so they started looking for something nontraditional, she said.
Her sister suggested Busch Stadium. While neither is a particularly die-hard Cardinals fan – John Price
grew up in New England – they both like sports and took to the idea of a less traditional celebration.
An added sentimental bonus: Their first date was a Cardinals home game.

“Everything else about the wedding was pretty regular,” Ruth Price said, referring to her dress, the
wedding party and the reception, which was across the street at the Marriott where both bride and
groom work. “We didn’t do anything too crazy, but we’re just not that traditional.” Case in point: Fred
Bird, the Cardinals’ mascot, drove Ruth Price’s then-fiancé out on his cart to meet her at the altar, uh,
home plate.

Thinking outside the wedding-gift box

Creating a day meaningful to the couple and their families can mean a lot of compromise. But
would-be brides and grooms shouldn’t be discouraged. If formal weddings don’t celebrate the
casual outdoor adventurer in you, consider a church wedding followed by a potluck picnic reception.
Contact Missouri State Parks for a list of possible locations. If registering for gifts despite already
owning everything you need conflicts with your values, choose a charity that can benefit from the
largesse of guests wanting to honor your commitment. For charitable gift registries, check out the
I Do Foundation.

The point is to create a special day that doesn’t undermine the couple’s values and interests. Instead,
with a bit of research and planning, engaged couples can plan for a day that expresses their
personalities, welcomes and entertains guests and rewards the work and investment of family.
There’s more than one way to tie the knot.
 

 


The culture of eating has always fascinated this caterer

By Julie Failla Earhart

Linda Pilcher's story begins many years ago. In her teens, she thought she wanted to be a
psychotherapist and that's what she studied. "But I really wasn't happy," she said. "There was
something missing.” When a friend's parents passed away and left her friend a little money, they
started thinking about what they really wanted to do.

"We decided to start a small catering business. It only involved a minimal amount of financial risk.
And I loved it,” Pilcher said. “I've been in the business ever since – that's 21 years and still growing
strong."

Pilcher may not have realized it while studying psychology, but the culture of eating has always
fascinated her. Especially since her therapeutic specialization was eating disorder. "Ironic, huh?"
she said.

What do you like best about the catering business?
Unlike psychotherapy, there is a somewhat immediate gratification. With each project, there's a
beginning, middle and end. Therapy can take years to see results.

What things do you find different after all these years?
There are two. First is that catering is no longer being relegated to seasonal affairs and celebrations.
It's happening with all types of events, especially small, and by that I mean 20 to 25 guests, dinner
parties.

Second is that most of my clients are looking toward having more vegetarian offerings. It used to be
almost an afterthought or something to please one or two guests. Now it's becoming more and
more mainstream.

What's your favorite event to cater?
I really enjoy events that average 50 to 100 people. Large enough to be challenging, and by that I mean
that it's challenging for my staff to present excellent food, well prepared in a timely manner. This size
event is also large enough that we can try new things and be creative in varieties and presentation.
And I always enjoy any event where the client is very interested in food and the quality of the food is
a top priority.

Do you do all the cooking yourself?
Oh no! I have a wonderful chef, Pat Edwards, who is [Culinary Institute of America] trained and has
been with me for eight years. Her assistant, Joanna Duley, is marvelous with pastries. Those two
make me look good.

What one ingredient won't we find in your kitchen?
That's a hard one as there's not much we don't use. I guess I'd have to say bologna. I can't recall
ever doing anything with bologna.

What are your favorite foods to cook?
I like hearty dishes that have a depth of flavors. I enjoy Mediterranean cuisine a lot.

What's your favorite type of food to eat?
Raw oysters. I can eat them by the truckload. I don't think I've ever gotten tired of them. I grew up
in Houston and Little Rock. I love Southern foods. Shrimp and grits. Plain grits. Fruit pies like peach and
apple, although I tend to make more tarts because there's less of a chance I'll mess up the crust.
Homemade biscuits. Bread pudding. Crème brûlée.

What is one of the more off-the-wall experiences you've had?
Several years ago, we were hired for a coming-out party that was held at the American Theatre.
Not to cater the food for the main guests, but we were hired to feed the entertainers – Tommy Tune
was the headliner _ the stagehands, the security people, etc. We were up all night and had a blast.

What do you like to do when you're not working?
Believe it or not, I like to cook. And I enjoy wine. My husband and I love to entertain at home. And we
truly enjoy trying to find new pairings of food and wine. And we bird-watch. Tom is an avid
bird-watcher and I've become one in defense. Our vacations tend to center around bird-watching
and food. And we also garden. I like to play in the dirt and grow herbs.

What's you favorite vacation destination?
Sonoma Valley in California. The atmosphere there is so inviting and relaxing for me. I've never been to Tuscany, but I imagine that I would adore it there.

What are your favorite restaurants?
There's our old favorite Zinnia. The quality of food there is always excellent. On the newer scene we
enjoy An American Place and Red Moon.

What task do you hate to do the most?
Pat and Joanna could probably tell you more easily, but the first things that come to mind are washing
lettuce for a 200-plus party and peeling asparagus for any size event.

What advice would you give someone entertaining the idea of opening a catering
business?

  1. It's fun to fantasize that all you do is cook all day, but the hard truth is that you must also be a
    people person and a businessperson. You can't cook what you want, but what your clients
    want. You must please their palates, not yours.
  2. You don't have to be rich to start this type of business. You can start small and then grow.
  3. Follow your heart. I'd tell that to anyone entering any field. If you feel strongly about something,
    stay the course.
     

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